Call it intuition or faults in the matrix, but we all have those destinations that we feel at home even if we have never been there. But to be honest? The Atlas Mountains were never one of mine.
But, Marrakech always has it. When I started planning a March trip to visit the vibrant Morocco City, I was directed by more than one travel-savvy friend, stopped within the nearby range, the closest to me was only an hour’s drive away. They say the mountainous areas bring an excellent (even necessary) to the buzz of the former Imperial city, the crowded streets. And, of course, the range itself is majestic, they distinguished the Sahara from the Mediterranean, and formed weather system barriers in the process.
So, last minute (especially for A-type travelers like me), we had a long weekend trip a few days after Marrakech. It's kind of like leaving New York City for Catskills…except not at all.
It's actually much faster for beginners to get there: from the city center to our hotel, Kasbah Tamadotthe drive clocked in an hour or two minutes. My inner New Yorker must point out that when I had a license, I did leave it to others on this journey, i.e. Scott Dunn. This is the first time I have used any kind of agency to plan a part of my trip (see Type A above), and I am almost feeling intimate about its smoothness. Like, others might be drawing driving time and fun places The whole time? Needless to say, I have converted it.
Our day started with easy access to the mountains. The buzzing of tourists and the medina quickly gave way to the empty roads and the distant vista. With no real fixed schedule, we made a few panoramic photos along the way: Even in late March, some of the highest peaks were still covered in snow. This is the first time around us since we arrived in the country: stillness. This huge landscape looks completely unshocked by anything outside of nature in the long drive. No one needs to tell me to put my phone away: It may be more important than what I see in front of me?
Soon we abandoned the car and walked a short walk into a Berber village where our guides welcomed us into their homes. Listed on the table are dozens of local hay, spices and flowers, all of which offer medicinal purposes in the Berber culture. After learning about their name and purpose, we were invited to mix our own special blended tea, then boiled in a traditional silver pot and added sugar with sugar (meaning a lot). We drank delicious beer on the terrace of the house, and the rugged maps kept us safe from the sun as my daughter and several local boys in the village tried to teach each other's language.
Then, in learning how to make bread in a traditional clay oven and being promoted into a traditional Berber turban and tunic (or Djellaba), we sat on huge pillows and enjoyed a chicken takin lunch, chopped tomato salad and plenty of fresh fruit sprinkled with cinnamon. It's an immersive and pleasant introduction to the area, like my friends say, like Marrakech, like the day and night.
After lunch we drove only a short distance from Kasbah Tamadot, which is perhaps the most famous property in Atlas Mountains and part of Richard Branson Virgin Limited Edition Hotel collection. The property's rust color, the tycoon's main building perched on the top of a winding road, Casbaor castle – to a large extent. But until you wander on the ground, what you can't see is the impressive land of the hotel: a real green oasis on the hill with lots of public spaces like a spacious pool and hot tub, plus 42 rooms distributed in Casba, in tents and riads.
My family stayed in the last category and just added to the property last summer. Our room had a large living room, outdoor dining room and one of the largest private pools I've ever seen in my hotel room. When we think of restaurant dining, the space is too beautiful to give up: breakfast is served in Kasbah, where I can pair it with freshly baked Moroccan bread and Berber-style porridge, while dinner is right in bed, and in the middle of the hotel is an impressive tent structure. Meals here include Western and Moroccan specialities, although you will foolishly order the former when local delicacies include Lamb Filet in Atlas herbs or fish and vegetable tagine that adds flavor to Chermoula.
The next morning event also requires a hearty dinner: the hotel has organized nearly a whole day of mountain breathing. But first, we Eve Branson Foundationa small nonprofit organization that teaches local women how to embroider, weave and make carpets, some of which were purchased by hotels. The foundation also includes a small shop where I picked up some gorgeous, brightly colored table runners. From there we drove to the Ouirgane Valley, also known as the Colorado of Morocco, for its striking red rocks and profound views. When my daughter chose to ride a donkey (I wish I could bring every hike), my husband and our guides, and not only stretched our legs over the mile long treks, which trek through the quiet forest of juniper trees and small villages. We may have only met three other people all day, which makes the rolling hills and valleys seem more spacious and remote.
My last morning wandered on the manicured roads of the property, admiring the rising mountains around me and having a final dip in our pool. At that time, I realized that I could hardly see my phone since I arrived, just as I was occupied in a calm environment. But sadly, it's time to head to the airport. Of course, we only scratched the surface of the area within three days. But our visit is a good reminder that even the most cautious planners of us can benefit from surprises. Your favorite destination may be waiting for you on the other side.
